Monday, 25 February 2013

Dadimar Jhuli thekey Gota Sheddho


‘Ashche bochor abar hobe’ is the popular refrain that echoes throughout during any bishorjon/immersion. With this cry, one is always filled with pain and sorrow. The much-awaited festival has finally come to an end. And with it ends our fun and frolic. Time to get back to studies or the daily grind whichever is applicable to one. 

But with Saraswati Pujo despite the gloominess, there has always been something to look forward to. The next day after Saraswati Pujo is equally important. This day is popular amongst us as Shitol Shoshthi/Gota Sheddho

Shitol means cold in Bengali and Shoshthi is the deity we worship for the well-being of our children or better known as the Goddess of Fertility. Shitol Shoshthi for any Bangali is a strictly no-cooking day. Yes, you’ve got it right. We don’t cook that day, in fact as Dadima (my maternal grandmother) and Ma pointed out they were not supposed to light the unoon (the earthen stoves) on that particular day. Food had to be cooked on the day of Saraswati Pujo which was then served cold the next day. Hence the term Shitol Shoshthi

The Panch Kalai out in the sun
So what do we eat that day? The menu for the day comprises of Gota Sheddho. Gota implies whole and Sheddho is boiled. Gota Sheddho comprises of Panch Kalai (five kinds of dal) and three/five/seven kinds of vegetables. This fascination with odd numbers (bijor shonkha), I have to find out from my elders the rationale behind it. Even numbers are a strict NO. Therefore if one doesn’t want to add three kinds of vegetables then it has to be five or seven. The pulses are roasted and then soaked overnight. Kul and sweet potato is a MUST in our family. One can also add shelled peas, brinjals, and potatoes. But all these vegetables should have their bota, I mean the stem. Hope now you realize why this concept of ‘gota’. 

My dekchi for Gota Sheddho
Gota Sheddho is prepared keeping in mind the number of family members. I have three sisters and we are all scattered across the country. When Ma makes Gota Sheddho she puts in vegetables for each of her daughters, her sons-in-law and her grandchildren irrespective of the fact that they might not be in town. So if she has three kinds of vegetables then she has to put in three for each and every family member. Such is the ritual. This ritual is for the well-being of her children. I still remember the huge dekchi (pan) that she used for the ritual. The aluminum had turned into black after years of boiling Gota Sheddho. First the kalai would go in followed by the vegetables.  It would take some 3-4 hours to boil. No salt, ghee, turmeric would be added into it.  

This ritual is usually performed by the matriarch of the family. In our case it was my grandmother and then Ma taking it up. But first she has to take a bath, purify herself and then wrap the shil-nora (the grinding stone) in a yellow cloth and worship it with holud, shidur and mustard oil. Only then can the making of Gota Sheddho commence. After the Puja the holud is then applied as a teeka on everyone’s forehead.
Gota Sheddho is served cold. Heating it is ruled out. Add salt, mustard oil and green chilly and it tastes wonderful. It tastes good, it’s good for health and yes my grandmother keeps on reiterating that it is ‘anti-pox’. That’s what they believe in. During my grandmother’s times there were no vaccines. Mortality rate was high as many children died due to pox. Gota Sheddho is considered a natural, yearly vaccine against pox. 
Roasted and soaked..ready for the boil

In my family I have seen that it’s not just Gota Sheddho we make. Ma and Dadima spend hours in the kitchen cooking up a storm. Shojnefuler jhal, ilish macher jhal, postor bora, Macher tok are a must for us.

Gota Sheddho was a huge family affair at our maternal grandparents’ house in Asansol. Dadima’s dekchi had ingredients for some fifteen family members besides the domestic help. And there would be neighbors who would be invited for lunch. Some would send their four-storey Tiffin carriers. Quite a sight it was.  The kitchen in our sprawling Asansol house was separate and was built in the Assamese style with a sloping tiled roof. It was two-roomed kitchen with two huge unoon. We would all line up on the verandah to have Gota Sheddho. The whole family together, laughter, shouts and giggles, it was an impressive affair. 
The kitchen at Asansol. It was demolished in 2010.

My husband is a bangal which means he comes from Opar Bangla or in better words from East Bengal. This ritual was alien to them. I introduced this custom and since then I have tried my best in continuing with it. This year is the first time that I couldn’t make Gota Sheddho at home. New in Orissa, I couldn’t locate vegetables with bota, no Ilish available and no shojneful. But next year I am determined to make Gota Sheddho even if it means importing all the ingredient s from Kolkata. 

Such is my love for Gota Sheddho!

1 comment:

  1. I share your love for Gota sheddho...the ritual continues to be observed at my place too. Pure nostalgia this write-up evoked.

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