Wednesday, 2 October 2013

Gram Banglar Pujo III; Away in Assam


The year we got married, I had in my mind, planned for a nice vacation in some exotic place. One fine, romantic evening, this new man in my life placed a very unusual request to me. ‘Cholo Charu-Piyari ke dekhiye ashi tomai’ (Let me show you Charu-Piyari). I couldn’t turn him down. His face was lit with his love for his hometown. Well, I decided that day I could go anywhere with this man whom I loved so much. Ok, so the first year of marriage would be dedicated to Charu-Piyari. We landed in Dhubri, Assam during Durga Puja. I had no expectations from this ‘Charu-Piyari’. I had dismissed them as a distant relative whom my husband was very fond of.  

Pujo in Dhubri, the place where my husband hails from, has a distinct flavour. There is no extravagance. It’s a simple, traditional affair. The rituals follow the Bengali Ponjika strictly. My father-in-law has been involved with this Pujo since many years back. The budget is minimum. Except for prosaad and bhog, there are no arrangements for Bhuribhoj. People donate money depending on their ability; it ranges from Rs 20 to Rs 200. But the music sets this Pujo apart. The music here is authentic. 

This tiny place comes alive during Durga Puja with scores of people filtering in from adjoining towns and villages. ‘Cholo Charu-Piyari ke dekhe ashi’ is what the people tell each other.

Charu-Piyari is the famous duo who are the official Dhaaki for this Pujo. This uncle-nephew duo has been around since many years. They date back to some 40 years back. Piyari has been playing the Dhaak with Charu since he was a little boy. After Charu passed away a couple of years ago, Piyari took on the mantle. In his 60’s, Piyari not only beats the drum but dances to the drum beats as well. He downs a few glasses of ‘dishi’ (locally made) liquor to keep him dancing through the night, balances the Dhaak with one hand and does acrobatics with the other! Accompanied by his assistant who plays the shanai, he is the centre of attraction in this sleepy, little town. People from neighboring areas visit this Pujo only to watch Piyari beat the Dhaak. It is customary for Piyari to beat the Dhaak on Nabami night till the Dhaak punctures! 

On Dashami, the residents have a tough time bidding farewell to this genius. With the absence of Piyari the town once again slumbers back to its routine existence.

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