Gram Banglar Pujo; Sonajhuri, Shantiniketan

For the last few years, I have been hearing people rave about a ‘shaotali’ (tribal) Pujo near Shantiniketan. This Durga Puja has also acquired international fame. People from far and wide troop down to Tagore’s abode to have a glimpse of this famous Pujo.

Last year we decided to visit and find out more about this Pujo. Yes, it’s highly innovative and markedly different from all the Pujo we see around. The rustic setting, in fact, sets it apart from all the Pujo around. The Baul mela nearby adds on to the excitement further. Since ours was a day trip, we were told that we would miss the evening celebrations which comprise of tribal dances and folk songs by the locals. 

It was started in 2001 by Badhon Das in the Sonajhuri village. Hence also known by the name Sonajhurir Pujo. Badhon Das was an artist and a teacher in the Government Art College. Popularly known as the Hiralini Pujo, it was named after Heera, Badhon Das’s sister and Nalini Das, Badhon Das’s father. It’s a tribal Pujo as tribals from the nearby areas in Birbhum, Jharkhand and Dumka (the erstwhile Santhal Parganas) join hands to design the Goddess, organize the Pujo and manage the show. Every year the Pujo is based on a theme. In 2001 it revolved around terracotta, in 2002 the theme was wood, followed by iron in 2003, bamboo in 2004, clay in 2005.This has been the five year plans for the Hiralini Pujo as desired by Badhon Das and has been followed religiously every year. Besides Dhaak and flute, Madol constitutes one of the main musical instruments.

The best part about it is the little ‘mela’ outside the Pujo premises. Petty sellers and artisans with their collection sit in row after row. Terracotta jewellery, decorative items made of straw, pots, wall hangings and many such knick-knacks are sold here. 

What caught our attention was the mud –walled, thatched restaurant called Shakuntala. Beautifully built, adorned with alpana and with earthen pots hanging in every nook and corner, it resembles any village dwelling. A peek inside revealed ‘haari’ (earthen pots) of various shapes and sizes filled with a variety of Bengali delicacy. Reasonably priced and highly aromatic, it was a delightful experience. Bhaat, dal, vegetables of all kind, mutton, chicken, fish, payesh and sweets of many types were there. Goja, monda, nolengur were there as well.  It proved to be a gastronomic delight for us!

This Pujo is a unique experience. The beautiful Goddess, the ethnic décor, the Baul mela next door, the artisans outside and the Bhuri bhoj is all worth the day trip! Only four hours away from Kolkata, I would recommend it all who want a respite from Kolkata’s chaos!